Tetela del Volcán lives in the shadow of Popocatépetl. The town sits at about two thousand metres on the southern slope of the volcano in the state of Morelos, and the snow-capped cone, often trailing a plume of steam and ash, looms over everything. In the middle of town stands the sixteenth-century church and former convent of San Juan Bautista, founded by Dominican friars in the decades after the Spanish conquest. Its cloister has some remarkable murals, painted in muted reds and blacks, showing saints and friars of the order. It is one of the fourteen monasteries on the slopes of Popocatépetl that were added to the World Heritage list in 1994 as a group.
The early friars built these convents as centres for evangelising the indigenous population, and they share a distinctive design: large walled atriums for open-air worship, with posa chapels at the corners and open chapels where mass could be said to crowds outside. The architecture combines European models with indigenous craftsmanship, and the murals, often painted by native artists trained by the friars, blend Christian themes with local styles. Tetela's convent is smaller and quieter than some, but its setting is unbeatable.
The roads up to Tetela are a fine ride. From Cuautla or Yecapixtla, the route climbs through a landscape of orchards, avocado groves and pine forest, with sweeping views back over the Morelos valleys and up to the volcano. The road has plenty of curves and steady gradients, and the air cools noticeably as you climb. Surfaces can vary, with potholes and topes, the Mexican speed bumps, which appear without warning in every village. Popocatépetl is an active volcano, and authorities sometimes restrict access to areas closer to the crater, so keep an eye on the local news and on the volcano's alert level.
Tetela is a town of around ten thousand people with basic services, including fuel, small shops and food stalls. The local markets sell fruit from the orchards, especially peaches and avocados, and you can find tacos, tamales and atole. Leave the bike by the plaza, walk through the atrium into the cloister, and look at the murals in the quiet. Then step outside and look up at the volcano. On a clear morning, it is a sight that makes you forget the road for a moment.