The road ends here, in the most literal sense. Telluride sits at the head of a box canyon in the San Juan Mountains, at about 2,670 metres, with cliffs on three sides and a waterfall tumbling down the back wall. Bridal Veil Falls drops about 110 metres, and the old hydroelectric plant perched at its top was among the first to deliver alternating current in the country. The town has the look of a mining camp turned into a resort, with Victorian brick fronts, wooden porches and a main street lined with bars and shops.
Silver was the first draw. In 1889, a young Butch Cassidy walked into the San Miguel Valley Bank and left with the money, which is generally counted as his first major robbery, and the building still stands. The miners are gone, but their mark is everywhere, in tailings piles, ruined mills and old mine roads that climb the slopes above the town. A free gondola links Telluride to the modern village of Mountain Village on the ridge, and in winter the skiing is among the best in Colorado, while in summer the town hosts a bluegrass festival and a film festival.
The ride in is spectacular. From Ouray, the road runs over Red Mountain Pass, famous for its sheer drops, before descending to Silverton and then climbing again over Lizard Head Pass, at about 3,100 metres, with the jagged tooth of Lizard Head Peak standing over the meadows. The approach from the south is gentler, with aspen groves that turn gold in late September. Weather changes quickly at altitude, and afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, bringing lightning and a sharp drop in temperature. Snow can close the passes from late October into May.
Fuel is available in Telluride, though at higher prices than in the valley, and Mountain Village and Placerville have a few stations too. Food and beds are plentiful, if not cheap, and summer weekends fill quickly, so book ahead. Thin air takes a toll on engines and riders alike, so allow time to adjust.
The best rides are in the early morning, when the light is gentle and the canyon is quiet. The first snow on the peaks is a memorable sight.