Tel Aviv is a city that is barely more than a century old. It was founded in 1909 on the sand dunes north of the old port of Jaffa by a group of Jewish families, and it grew with astonishing speed. In the 1930s, architects who had trained in Germany and in the Bauhaus tradition built thousands of modernist apartment blocks, with white walls, curved balconies and small windows to keep out the sun, and the White City is now listed by UNESCO as a remarkable example of that style. Rothschild Boulevard, lined with trees and cafes, is the best place to see them.
The pace of life is quick and the climate is warm and humid for most of the year, with the beach the centre of social life. A promenade runs along the coast, and the sunsets are famous. Jaffa, to the south, is far older, a port of stone lanes and a clock tower, where the sea has been a gateway for three thousand years. Food is a highlight, from hummus and fresh falafel to seafood and market stalls at the Carmel Market.
For a rider, Tel Aviv's roads are fast and demanding, with heavy traffic on the Ayalon highway and a lot of scooters. Parking for two wheels is usually easy. The afternoon ride heads inland and east toward the hills of Judea, where terraced slopes of olive and vine, springs and old stone farming villages make up a cultural landscape of ancient agricultural practice. The land changes quickly from coastal plain to rocky hills, and the temperature drops with height.
Be aware that the region's security situation can change quickly. Check current travel advice and local conditions before setting out, and be prepared for checkpoints and road closures on some routes. Fuel is easy in the city and along the main roads. Shabbat, from Friday evening to Saturday evening, brings quieter streets and fewer shops open in many parts of the country, though Tel Aviv itself is lively throughout. Carry water in summer and wear a helmet and layers.