Few landscapes in Indonesia are as photographed as the rice terraces of Tegallalang, a few kilometres north of Ubud, where the green steps climb both sides of a river valley in a pattern as precise as a staircase. The terraces are not for show. They are part of a system called subak, an ancient method of irrigation and communal water management that dates back about a thousand years, and which is run by farmers' associations according to the Balinese Hindu philosophy of harmony between people, nature and the gods. UNESCO listed the subak landscape as a World Heritage Site in 2012, and the fields here are a living example.
The best light is early in the morning, when mist drifts through the palms and the water in the flooded fields reflects the sky, and again in the late afternoon. The rice cycle takes about four months, from flooded green seedlings to golden grain, so the colour varies through the year. In recent years, cafés and swings have appeared along the ridge, charging entry for photographs, and the site is often busy with visitors. Even so, farmers still plant and harvest by hand, and small offerings of flowers and incense are placed at the corners of the fields and at the little water temples, thanking the goddess of rice.
Riding in Bali is an adventure in its own right. Scooters are the main form of transport, and the roads are narrow, busy and chaotic, with trucks, dogs, chickens, ceremonial processions and sudden turns. Traffic drives on the left, and the pace is slow in villages. The road from Ubud to Tegallalang is crowded with tour vans and bikes, so patience is essential. Early morning is the best time, before the heat and the crowds, and the dry season from April to October is the most comfortable. In the wet season, afternoon downpours are heavy, and the road can be slick.
The villages along the way are known for their craftsmanship. Tegallalang itself is famous for wood carving and stone sculptures, and the roadside is lined with workshops selling furniture, masks and statues. Offerings in small palm-leaf trays, called canang sari, are laid on the road each morning, and riders are expected to avoid them where possible.
Fuel is easy to find. Ubud, about nine kilometres to the south, has several stations, and small roadside stalls across Bali sell petrol in glass bottles. Cafés near the terraces serve coffee, fruit juices and nasi goreng, with views over the fields. Carry small cash for entrance donations and parking.