Tazewell is a small Appalachian county seat in southwest Virginia, and the road that matters here is Virginia Route 16, the one that riders call the Back of the Dragon. It runs from Marion, to the south, across the Appalachian ridges and down to Tazewell, about thirty-two miles of steep climbs, tight curves and little else, with claims of hundreds of curves along the way. Most of it runs through the Jefferson National Forest, over Walker Mountain and Clinch Mountain, with forest on both sides and very few houses.
Tazewell sits in a high valley, a quiet town of brick storefronts and old churches, with a courthouse and a small historic district. The county is coal country, and a short drive away, the town of Pocahontas has an exhibition mine where you can walk into a historic seam. Nearby Burke's Garden, a remarkable high valley ringed by mountains, is called God's thumbprint for its shape, and it is a quiet, pastoral basin of farms. The Crab Orchard Museum, in town, recalls early settlers and the Native peoples who lived here before them.
The road is a serious ride. Route 16 has a poor reputation for accidents, and with good reason: the curves tighten without warning, the surface is variable and sometimes damp under tree cover, and cattle and deer can appear on the pavement. Take it at a pace that suits your skills, and leave overtaking to the straights. There are almost no services along the mountain section, so fill the tank before starting. Weekends and fall foliage season bring many riders, and a few police, so keep speeds sensible.
Tazewell has fuel, supermarkets, restaurants and a few motels, and it is the best place to rest and eat before or after the climb. Springville and Claypool Hill are small, so do not count on them. The best seasons are spring and mid-October, with mild days and colorful hills, though summer is green and warm, with afternoon storms. Winter ice can close the mountain road. Mist and fog gather in the hollows, so slow down in the lower sections.