Tash Rabat is a stone building in the middle of nowhere, which is exactly why it still stands. A caravanserai, one of the inns that sheltered Silk Road traders, it sits in a high, narrow valley south of Naryn at around 3,200 metres, tucked against a hillside and built from dark local stone with domed rooms around a central hall. The main structure is usually dated to the fifteenth century, though some researchers think the site is older and may have begun as a monastery, possibly Nestorian Christian, centuries earlier. Nobody knows for sure, which suits the atmosphere.
The valley feels like the edge of the world. Beyond it, the road continues toward the Torugart Pass and the Chinese border, one of the old arteries of trade between Kashgar and the Fergana valley. Caravans crossed from the east, camels and horses carrying silk, spices, tea and news, and a stop here offered safety, water and a roof. Inside, thick walls and small rooms keep out the wind, and the dim light and cool air carry the feeling of centuries of tired travellers.
The ride from Naryn passes through the Naryn river valley and the village of At-Bashi, then climbs onto a broad, treeless plateau. The road is mostly paved but with occasional rough patches, and it feels long and open, with few cars and many livestock. The valley narrows as you approach, with red cliffs, snow on the high peaks and the wind off the Tian Shan. Weather changes quickly, so expect sun, cold rain and perhaps a flurry of snow in a single afternoon, even in summer.
Fuel is limited to Naryn, around a hundred kilometres to the northwest, so arrive full, and in the same spirit bring water and snacks. Near the caravanserai you will find a few yurt camps and basic guesthouses, and a small fee is usually charged to enter the building. The summer months are best; outside them, snow and cold make the valley harsh. Give yourself time to sit on the grass, drink tea with the camp family and look at the hills. It is a place that rewards slowing down.