Come on a Sunday or do not bother, is the local wisdom, because Tarabuco is a small highland town with a very large market once a week. It sits in the hills east of Sucre at around 3,300 metres, roughly forty kilometres from the city, and it belongs to the Yampara people, whose weaving traditions are among the finest in Bolivia. The streets are quiet most days and then fill on Sunday morning with farmers, weavers and buyers from the surrounding valleys.
The textiles are the draw. Look for the dense, geometric patterns woven in dark red, black and cream, often showing animals, crops and village scenes, and for the men's costumes, which include a leather helmet-like hat called a montera, based on the headgear of the Spanish conquistadors. People wear these every day, not for show. If you want to buy, bargain with a smile and do not rush; the best pieces take months of work and the price reflects it.
History lives in the town as well. In 1816 a Yampara and mestizo force fought Spanish troops in the Battle of Jumbate nearby, and the event is remembered each March in the Pujllay festival, with music, dancing, chicha and a good deal of noise. If you are riding the region at that time, the whole area turns festive, and you might find rooms booked out.
The road in from Sucre climbs out of the valley through a dry, folded landscape of red earth, terraced fields, and eucalyptus stands, with views that open wide on the ridges. It is a rewarding ride for the changes of scenery more than outright speed. Take it in the morning, before the market begins to crowd the last stretch and when the light is clear on the hills. Watch for animals, farm vehicles and people on the road, especially on market day, and slow down when you enter the village.
Tarabuco is small, with a population of about two and a half thousand, so do not rely on it for fuel; fill up in Sucre before you leave, where there are plenty of stations. Cafés and market stalls provide hearty soup, grilled meat, and cups of hot tea, which are welcome in the cool air. Carry something warm even on a bright day.