The Tara river has cut one of the deepest canyons in Europe, a gorge that plunges as much as thirteen hundred metres below the rim at its greatest. It runs through the heart of Durmitor National Park in northern Montenegro, a UNESCO World Heritage area, with the clear green water of the Tara, known as the Tear of Europe, tumbling through rapids at the bottom. Standing at a viewpoint on the rim, you see the walls drop away through layers of pine and rock, with the river a bright thread far below and the sound arriving late.
Not far from the main viewpoints stands the Đurđevića Tara Bridge, a slender concrete arch more than 350 metres long and over 150 metres above the river, completed in 1940. Its story is part engineering, part war. In 1942, partisans, with an engineer's help, blew up the central arch to slow an Italian advance, and the bridge was rebuilt after the war. Today a zip line crosses beside it, and tour groups gather at a small cluster of stalls selling honey, cheese and brandy.
The road leading here is a classic of the Balkans. The route from Žabljak twists across the plateau through forest and meadow, with views of the Durmitor peaks, and then meets the canyon edge at a series of lookouts. Surface quality varies, with some excellent tarmac and some rough patches, and the road can be busy with coaches in high season. Early morning and late afternoon offer the best light, with fewer people and a golden glow on the rock. Mist can fill the canyon, which is magical if you are lucky.
For practical needs, Žabljak, around fourteen kilometres away, has fuel, shops, cafes and guesthouses, and is the best base for the area. Pljevlja, a larger town, lies to the north. At the viewpoint, a few stalls sell snacks and drinks, but not much else. Rafting trips run on the river in the spring and early summer, when snowmelt makes the water high and fast, and walking trails lead into the national park. Take a jacket, because the air at the rim is cooler than you expect, and keep a careful distance from the edge.