Tamarë, or Tamara, is a village in the Hoti region on the Montenegrin side of the border with Albania, set in a landscape of dry limestone hills, vineyards and scrub, a short distance north of Skadar Lake. The people here are mostly ethnic Albanians, and the place feels like the northern Albanian country on the other side of the line, with the same stone houses, the same language and the same hospitality. The border has shaped life here for a century, and it is closer than it looks.
Skadar Lake lies to the south and is the biggest lake in the Balkans, shared between Montenegro and Albania. It is shallow, warm and full of life, with pelicans, cormorants, herons and several hundred kinds of bird, including the rare Dalmatian pelican. The marshes and waterlily meadows are a nature reserve, and the old fortress of Žabljak Crnojevića stands on a small island near the northern end. The wine of the region, particularly Vranac, a dark and powerful red, is grown on the hills near Podgorica and has a name in the Balkans.
The ride is quiet, with gentle bends, slow villages and a good deal of local traffic. The roads linking Tuzi, Tamarë and the border at Božaj are generally in fair shape but can be uneven, and the wind from the mountains can be strong. Animals cross the road without warning, and in the evening, farmers move cattle and sheep home. In summer, the heat bounces off the stone, and a gentle early start is best. The mountains of the Prokletije rise ahead, and the road toward the border climbs into a more dramatic landscape.
Crossing the border into Albania is straightforward for most nationalities, but you need your passport, vehicle registration and a valid green card for insurance. At busy times, queues can be long, and the formalities are slow. Many riders choose to cross early in the morning, when the traffic is light, and to carry some local currency for small purchases.
Podgorica, about twenty-five kilometres away, is the nearest large town, and has fuel, supermarkets and restaurants, as well as a pleasant old district. Tuzi, closer to the border, has some shops and stations. Food in the area is simple and hearty, with grilled meat, cheese, fresh bread and local honey, and a coffee in a village cafe is a good way to pause.