Winding Stair Mountain lives up to its name. The ridge twists along the Oklahoma side of the border like a ribbon thrown on the ground, with the road keeping to its crest and offering one view after another across forested hills to the north and south. The mountain is part of a national recreation area, and the forest is a mix of shortleaf pine, oak and hickory, with an understory of dogwood and huckleberry. On a clear day you can see for forty miles.
The Ouachitas are an old and unusual mountain range. Formed by the collision of continents more than 300 million years ago, they were folded and thrust into long parallel ridges of sandstone, then eroded to their present form. Unlike the neighbouring Ozarks, they are made mainly of sandstone, chert and shale, with clear streams running through narrow valleys. Quartz crystals are found in the area, and the nearby hills around Mount Ida in Arkansas are known for their crystal mines, where visitors can dig for specimens.
The riding here is relaxed and flowing. The road follows the ridge with gentle curves, small rises and dips, and a surface that is generally smooth, with moderate speed limits. Overlooks every few miles let you stop and look, and several have picnic tables and shelters. The traffic is light, and the drive has a soothing pace after the busy highways. Take care at the overlooks, where gravel and sand collect on the pavement, and watch for deer at dawn and dusk.
Fuel is not available along the ridge, and the nearest towns, Heavener to the north and Talihina to the west, are some distance away. Heavener has a famous runestone, a slab of rock carved with symbols that some believe to be Norse, and a small park around it. Poteau, the larger town to the north, has more services. Carry snacks and water, and keep an eye on the fuel gauge.
Weather in the mountains is milder than the plains, but storms can be fierce. Thunderstorms bring heavy rain and sometimes hail in spring, and winter ice can close the road for short periods. Spring brings dogwood and redbud, and in October the colour on the ridge is vivid. Early morning, with mist rising from the valleys, is the best time of day.