Takayama sits in the Hida mountains in the centre of Honshu, a small city of about sixty-five thousand surrounded by peaks of the Northern Alps. For centuries it was cut off by snow, and its carpenters became famous across Japan, so skilled that they were sent to build temples and palaces in Kyoto and Edo. That heritage is visible in the old town, where dark wooden merchants' houses with latticed fronts line the narrow streets of Sanmachi Suji, and sake breweries mark themselves with cedar balls hanging over the doors.
Takayama is best known for its festivals, held in spring and autumn, when ornate floats with mechanical puppets are pulled through the streets. Hida beef, marbled and tender, is served as steak, on skewers or on a magnolia leaf over a small charcoal burner, and the morning markets by the Miyagawa river sell pickles, apples and handicrafts. The city is a rewarding place for a night, with hot-spring inns and quiet evenings.
The roads from Takayama are among the best in the Japanese Alps. Route 158 leads west toward Shirakawa-go through long tunnels and valleys, and the mountain roads toward Norikura and the Hida high country are twisty and steep, with fine views. The Hida region receives heavy snow, so many high roads close from late autumn until spring, and even in summer fog and showers can arrive suddenly. Autumn colours are marvellous.
You will find fuel in the town, and it is wise to fill up before heading into the valleys, where stations are sparse. Takayama's pace is slow, with plenty of cafes and noodle shops, and a stroll along the river takes you past old bridges and quiet lanes. Tourists crowd the old town in the middle of the day, so go early or late for the best light. After a day of mountain riding, the smell of woodsmoke and miso soup makes it a perfect place to rest.