At 3,275 metres, Wuling Pass is the highest point on Taiwan's road network, and getting there is a story in itself. From the lowland heat of Hualien or Puli, the road climbs through subtropical forest, then cool broadleaf woods, then forests of hemlock and fir, until at the top you are in a world of dwarf bamboo grassland, rocky peaks and thin, cold air. It is a remarkable change for an island that sits on the Tropic of Cancer, and it means that riders who left the coast in a T-shirt need every layer they packed.
The pass lies on the shoulder of Hehuanshan, a group of peaks in Taroko National Park that are among the most accessible high mountains in Taiwan. On clear days the views stretch across ridge after ridge of the Central Mountain Range, and at sunrise and sunset the light is spectacular. In winter, cold fronts occasionally bring snow, which draws crowds from the lowlands who have never seen it, and the road can be closed or require chains. Stargazing is excellent here on clear nights, with little light pollution.
Riding up is demanding and rewarding. The roads, Highway 14A from the west and the connection to the Central Cross-Island Highway from the east, are narrow and winding, with countless hairpins, steep gradients and sections that are often wet or covered in fog. Engines lose power at this altitude, and so do riders: altitude sickness is possible if you come straight up from sea level, so take it easy, drink water and rest. Weekends bring cars and tour buses, and the descent requires care with brakes.
There are no towns at the top, just a small car park, a sign and a viewpoint. The nearest services are at Cingjing, the farm and resort area on the western side, which has hotels, restaurants and fuel, and further down, Puli, about thirty-six kilometres away, which is a town of several tens of thousands with everything a rider needs. Puli is also known for its water, used for rice wine and paper making, and for its butterflies. Top up the tank down in the valley, pack a fleece and gloves, and plan to cross early in the day, before the afternoon cloud rolls in.