Asuka is where Japan as a state began to take shape, and Tachibana-dera sits right in the middle of it, among rice paddies and low hills in a small valley south of Nara. Tradition holds that Prince Shōtoku, the regent who promoted Buddhism and wrote Japan's first constitution in the early seventh century, was born here, and the temple claims to have been founded by him. The present buildings are much later, but the site is ancient, and the atmosphere of the quiet temple grounds, with their wooden halls, gravel courtyards and a curious stone carved with two faces, one good and one evil, is very special.
The Asuka area is dotted with remains of the period when the imperial court resided here, roughly the sixth and seventh centuries: burial mounds, palace sites and enigmatic stone monuments. The Ishibutai kofun, a huge tomb of massive stones whose earth mound has eroded away, is a short distance away, as are the Kameishi turtle stone and the Asuka-dera temple, home to what is often called the oldest Buddha statue in Japan. Many people rent bicycles to tour the area, and the paths between rice fields and villages are gentle and scenic.
On a motorcycle, Asuka is easy to explore, but take it slowly. The local roads are narrow, often without sidewalks, and shared with cyclists, walkers and farm vehicles, so a calm pace is essential. The surrounding hills offer some winding roads, especially toward Yoshino to the south, famous for its cherry blossoms, and the mountain roads of the Kii peninsula, which are a riders' paradise of endless curves through cedar forests. Spring and autumn are the most beautiful seasons, with cherry blossoms in early April and red maples in November, but they are also the most crowded.
Kashihara, about five kilometres away, is a larger city with fuel, convenience stores and restaurants. Asuka itself has small cafés and shops selling local specialities, such as kudzu sweets and Asuka strawberries. Sakurai, a few kilometres east, is home to the Ōmiwa shrine, one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan, where the mountain itself is considered the deity. Japanese traffic rules are strictly enforced, and riding on the left takes some getting used to for those from continental Europe.