Lake Synevyr is the largest lake in the Ukrainian Carpathians, a deep, dark mountain lake at about a thousand metres, ringed by spruce forest and fed by springs. It sits in the Synevyr National Nature Park, in Zakarpattia, and the Darvaika forest to which the label refers is a part of the park's old beech woods, that UNESCO lists among the old beech woods of the Carpathians. The lake owes its name to a legend: a count named Shenborn had a daughter, Synya, who fell in love with a shepherd called Vyr, and when the count killed him, her tears made the lake, while the island in the middle is the shepherd's grave.
Around the lake you will find a small rehabilitation centre for brown bears, which rescues animals that were kept in cruel conditions and gives them space in the forest. The wider park has lynx, deer, wolves and a good number of wild bears, though your chance of seeing one is low, and you should treat the area with the respect the animals deserve. Silence, cool air and the scent of resin hang over the forest, particularly in the early morning when mist hangs over the water.
The mountain roads here are narrow and winding, with the occasional pothole and often a log truck coming the other way. Slopes are steep, the bends tight, and sudden rain or fog is part of life in the Carpathians. Locals drive fast and cut corners, so keep to your side. Autumn brings gold and red to the beech forests, and winter brings deep snow and closed roads, so most visitors come from May to October. The lake is a popular stop for Ukrainians, and its car park fills at weekends.
Kolochava, about nine kilometres away, is a mountain town with an open-air museum, and Synevyr village is a little farther. Fuel stations are few and far between, so fill the tank at Khust or Mizhhiria before heading into the hills. As elsewhere in Ukraine, check the current security and travel advice before planning a trip, as conditions can change. In the villages, home cooking is generous: dumplings, borscht, mushroom dishes and the sour cheese bryndza, served with strong coffee or herbal tea.