Swartberg Pass is gravel, and that is exactly why people love it. It crosses the Swartberg range between Oudtshoorn and Prince Albert, rising to about 1,585 metres at the summit, and it was built between 1881 and 1888 by Thomas Bain with convict labour, who cut and packed the stone walls and zigzags by hand. Today it is a national heritage site, one of the finest examples of pass-building in the country, with dry-stone retaining walls that look more like medieval masonry than road engineering.
The surface is a mix of packed gravel and loose stones, and a careful rider on a reasonably capable bike can manage it in dry weather, though conditions change with grading, rain and washouts, so it is wise to ask locally. Corners are tight, hairpins are steep and sometimes very exposed, with long drops from the outer edge, and in places the width is just enough for two vehicles. Take it slowly, stay alert for oncoming traffic, and treat the descents with respect. Do not attempt it after heavy rain or when snow has fallen, as it can close for days.
The views are the reward. From the top, the land falls away to the Little Karoo on one side and the Great Karoo on the other, with the contrast between green valleys, orchards and dry, rocky plains. Rock formations are bent and folded into dramatic shapes, and the light at sunrise and sunset is magnificent. A side road from near the summit leads into Gamkaskloof, a hidden valley known as The Hell, once home to a remote farming community, though that track is rougher and much longer.
Prince Albert, about fourteen kilometres from the northern foot, is a charming village of whitewashed houses, with fuel, a few restaurants and some excellent olive and fruit farms. Oudtshoorn, a larger town on the other side, is known for its ostrich farms and has all services. There are none on the pass, so fill up beforehand, carry water, and wear sunscreen. A flask of coffee at the top, with the whole range stretched out below, is one of the best breaks in the Cape.