Swansea sits on the shore of Great Oyster Bay, halfway up Tasmania's east coast, and its position is one of the best on the island. The bay curves away to the east, and across the water the pink granite peaks of the Hazards rise above the Freycinet Peninsula, glowing in the sunset like a stage set. Behind the town the land climbs to the Eastern Tiers, and the Meredith River runs through farmland to the sea. It is one of the oldest settlements on this coast, and the stone buildings, old warehouses and quiet streets reflect its long history of farming, whaling and sheep.
The town has a cheerful, unhurried character. A museum in an old bark mill tells the story of the local industry, and a general store sells everything from fishing line to local honey. The bay is known for oysters, and you can sometimes buy them fresh and eat them by the water, and local cafes and pubs serve fish, scallops and the famous Tasmanian wine. Swansea has the necessary services, including fuel and a supermarket, though hours are limited outside summer.
For a rider, the road here is the heart of the Great Eastern Drive, a ribbon of tarmac that follows the coast between Hobart and the north. South of town you pass the Spiky Bridge, built by convicts, and the beaches of the bay, while north the road continues to Coles Bay and the gateway to Freycinet National Park. The surface is generally good, with gentle bends and open views, though the weather can be cold and windy, even in summer. Wildlife on the road is a hazard at dawn and dusk.
The best time to ride is late spring, when the wildflowers bloom and the traffic is light, or early autumn, when the sea is still warm and the days are long. Winter brings cold winds and frost, and snow may fall on the Tiers. If you are staying overnight, book ahead in January and at Easter, when the town fills up. Walk along the beach at dusk and watch the Hazards turn pink, and you will understand why people come back.