The Svydovets is a long, high ridge in the Ukrainian Carpathians, rising above the upper Tisza valley near the town of Rakhiv in Zakarpattia. Its southern and northern slopes hold some of the wildest primeval beech forest left in Europe, protected as part of the Carpathian Biosphere Reserve and included in the UNESCO site of Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe. Above the trees lie broad alpine meadows, the polonyna, where Hutsul shepherds traditionally drove their flocks each summer, with glacial lakes tucked below the ridge.
This is a place of big landscapes and deep tradition. The Hutsuls, the highland people of this part of the Carpathians, are known for their carved wooden churches, embroidered clothing, long trembita horns and a rich folklore of forest spirits. Food is hearty and simple: banosh, a cornmeal porridge cooked with sour cream and topped with sheep's cheese, bryndza, and mushroom soups. Rakhiv likes to call itself the highest town in Ukraine, and a monument near the village of Dilove claims to mark the geographical centre of Europe, a title several places contest.
Honesty matters more than romance here, though. Ukraine is at war, and travel conditions can change quickly. Before considering any trip, check official advice from your government, entry requirements and the security situation in the region. The area sits close to the Romanian border, and border zones may have restrictions.
If and when conditions allow, the riding is rugged. The main road follows the Tisza valley along the Romanian frontier, with mountains rising steeply on both sides, and minor roads branch up side valleys towards villages and logging tracks. Surfaces range from decent to terrible, with deep potholes, broken tarmac and gravel, and many forest roads are suitable only for dual-sport bikes. Weather in the mountains is changeable, with heavy rain and fog common. Plans for a large ski resort on the Svydovets have met strong opposition from environmental groups, who see the forest as irreplaceable.
Rakhiv, about sixteen kilometres away, is the main town, with fuel, shops and basic services. Elsewhere supplies are sparse. Carry spare fuel if you venture into the side valleys, along with water, food and a good map, and do not rely on mobile coverage in the high country.