The Grand Canal is the longest artificial waterway in the world, running from Beijing to Hangzhou, and the Jiangnan section through Suzhou is one of its most storied stretches. Here, the canal winds through a landscape of water towns, rice fields and lakes, past ancient bridges, temples and gardens. It is part of the World Heritage site that recognises the canal as one of the greatest engineering achievements of the pre-industrial world.
The canal was built over centuries, with major sections completed during the Sui dynasty in the early seventh century, to transport grain and goods between the fertile south and the political capitals in the north. Suzhou flourished as a commercial and cultural centre, known for its silk, its scholars and its classical gardens, several of which are also World Heritage sites. Along the canal, you can see stone bridges like the Baodai Bridge, with its many arches, and old towpaths where boats were once pulled by human labour.
Riding here is a different kind of experience. The area around Suzhou is densely populated, with heavy traffic, busy roads and many restrictions on motorcycles in urban areas. Foreigners need special permits and often a guide to ride in China. The roads are generally flat and straight, with occasional bridges and elevated highways. The best way to see the canal is often by boat or on foot, exploring the water towns like Tongli, Zhouzhuang and Luzhi, where life still revolves around the waterways.
The landscape is shaped by water. Lake Tai, one of the largest freshwater lakes in China, lies to the west, and the area is crisscrossed by canals, rivers and ponds. In spring, the fields are green with rice and rapeseed, and in autumn, the hairy crabs of Yangcheng Lake are a famous delicacy. The air can be humid and hazy, especially in summer.
Suzhou is a major city with all services, including fuel, food and accommodation. Songling, part of the Wujiang district, is about five kilometres away. Try Suzhou-style noodles, sweet and sour mandarin fish, or a cup of Biluochun green tea, grown on the hills by Lake Tai.