On the southern flank of Mount Fuji, above the town of Susono, a quiet shrine stands among tall cedar trees at the start of one of the oldest climbing routes on the mountain. The Suyama Sengen-jinja is dedicated to the goddess of Fuji and marks the beginning of the Suyama trail, used by pilgrims for centuries before falling into disuse in the twentieth century and being partly revived in recent years. It is one of the component sites of Fujisan, Sacred Place and Source of Artistic Inspiration, listed by UNESCO in 2013.
The shrine is small and peaceful, with moss-covered stone lanterns and the scent of cedar and incense in the air. Unlike the busy shrines and trails on the more popular routes, it sees few visitors, and you can often have it almost to yourself. On a clear day, the summit of Fuji, at 3,776 metres, rises above the trees, and the view of its perfect cone across the fields and forests is one of the classic images of Japan. Mount Fuji has been worshipped for centuries as a sacred mountain, and pilgrims would purify themselves at shrines like this before beginning the climb.
The roads around Fuji are excellent for riding, with smooth surfaces, careful drivers and stunning views. The Fuji Skyline and other roads that climb the mountain's flanks lead to car parks and trailheads at the fifth stations, with hairpins and changing landscapes from forest to volcanic rock, though some may be subject to closures or restrictions in winter and during the climbing season. The Hakone area, a short ride east, has more curvy mountain roads and lakes with views of Fuji. Traffic can be heavy on weekends and holidays.
Gotemba, a city of over eighty thousand, has fuel, shops and restaurants, as well as a large outlet mall. Local specialities include Fujinomiya yakisoba, fried noodles with a chewy texture, and fresh trout from mountain streams. The best views of Fuji come in the colder months, when the air is clear, while summer is often hazy and humid. Bring warm layers if you plan to ride high on the mountain.