Suusamyr is a high, wide, windy valley in the heart of Kyrgyzstan, a long green bowl at more than two thousand metres between the Suusamyr-Too and Kyrgyz ranges, and in summer it is one of the best places in Central Asia to see a pastoral way of life that has hardly changed in centuries. The valley is famous for being cold: snow can fall in any month, and winter temperatures drop far below freezing.
The riding is exceptional. The road from Bishkek climbs to the Too-Ashuu Pass, at around 3,500 metres, passing through a long tunnel built in the 1950s before descending to the valley floor, where the tarmac runs flat and straight for dozens of kilometres between rolling hills. Further on, the road to Talas climbs over the Ala-Bel pass, with fresh tarmac in places and rough patches elsewhere, and enormous views. The surface can be broken by frost, with potholes and washouts after rain, and livestock regularly wander across. Altitude affects both rider and engine, so go slowly, carry warm layers and drink plenty of water. The riding season is short, from June to September, and weather can swing from hot sun to hail in an hour.
The valley is a jailoo, a summer pasture, and from June to September herding families arrive from the lowlands with their horses, sheep and cattle, setting up felt yurts on the green slopes. The people are Kyrgyz, descendants of nomadic tribes who have herded here for centuries, and hospitality is a matter of pride. A rider who stops near a yurt may be invited for tea, bread and cream, and a bowl of kymyz, fermented mare's milk, which has a sour, fizzy tang. The Soviet era brought collective farms and roads, and the remains of those times can still be seen in some villages.
Nature is vast and clean. The valley floor is covered in grass and wildflowers, with snow-capped peaks along the horizon, and eagles, hawks and marmots are common. The air smells of grass, dung smoke and cold water, and the night sky is amazing. Rivers run clear and cold from the glaciers, and horses graze on the slopes.
Fill the tank in Bishkek or before the pass, since fuel is limited in the valley, and carry extra if you can. Bring cold-weather gear, food, water and a spare tube, and tell someone your plans, since mobile coverage drops out.