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Sutton, on the way back

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Sutton is a tiny village in the east of Bedfordshire, close to Potton, and its fame rests on something wonderfully small: a ford and a medieval packhorse bridge. The road dips through a shallow stream at the bottom of the village, and beside it a narrow stone bridge, barely wide enough for a laden horse, carries walkers over the water as it has done since the Middle Ages. It is one of the few packhorse bridges left in this part of England.

The ford is a classic test of nerve and judgement for riders. Most of the year the water is shallow and the bottom firm, and you can splash through at walking pace with a grin, but after heavy rain it rises and runs fast, and the stones on the bed are slippery with weed. If in doubt, take the other road round. And yes, the label says swim, but that is too generous: the stream is for paddling feet on a hot day, not for swimming, and the nearest real water is elsewhere.

This is greensand country, a low ridge of sandy soil that runs across Bedfordshire, with pine woods, heath and old estates. Potton, on its edge, has long been a market-gardening town, famous for its vegetables, and its small square and old houses have an easy charm. Not far west, at Sandy, the RSPB has its headquarters in a heathland reserve, and at Old Warden the Shuttleworth Collection keeps vintage aircraft and cars, with flying displays in summer that are a real treat if you are an engineering enthusiast.

The roads are gentle and quiet. The lanes between Sutton, Potton and Gamlingay are narrow, with hedges and short bends and good surfaces, and the land is mostly flat, with long views across fields towards the Cambridgeshire border. Watch for tractors, especially in the harvest months, and for cyclists on the lanes around the villages. It is not a place for speed but for easy riding and a sense of the old countryside.

Potton has shops, a pub and a café or two, and for fuel and bigger services, Biggleswade is about six kilometres away, on the old Great North Road. Sutton itself has a pub and a church and very little else, which is exactly why it feels like a good place to stop.

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