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Surduc - Deasupra Văii Hrăii

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Surduc is a village in the Someș valley in Sălaj county, north-western Romania, where the river cuts a narrow path through hills on its way toward Baia Mare. Above the village, on a ridge overlooking the valley of the Hrăii stream, there are traces of a Roman watchtower, part of the frontier of the province of Dacia. The nearby villages of Tihău and Băbeni, and the town of Jibou, are all close by.

The Romans held Dacia from the early second century until about 271, and the north-western frontier of the province ran through these hills. It was not a continuous wall like Hadrian's Wall, but a network of forts, watchtowers and earthworks that watched the valleys and passes. The frontier, the Dacian Limes, was added to the UNESCO list in 2024 as part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire. The watchtower above the Hrăii valley is one of many small sites along this line, and what remains is mostly earthworks, but the position, with views over the valley, shows how the Romans used the landscape to keep watch.

The Someș valley was a natural route between Transylvania and the plains to the north-west, and it remained important long after the Romans left. The region has a mixed heritage, with Romanian and Hungarian villages, Orthodox and Reformed churches, and old wooden churches, some of which are beautifully painted inside. Surduc is also known for a large reservoir on the Hrăii river nearby, a popular spot for fishing and walks.

The riding here is rural and relaxed. The roads along the Someș valley are generally decent, with gentle curves, while side roads into the hills can be rough and narrow. Expect horse-drawn carts, livestock and dogs, and watch out for potholes. The roads toward Zalău and the Meseș mountains, or north toward Baia Mare and the Maramureș, offer more interesting riding.

Jibou, about seven kilometres away, has fuel and shops. Local food includes sarmale, mămăligă, polenta, and plum brandy. Late spring and early autumn are the best seasons, with mild weather and green hills.

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