The Qaysariyah is Hofuf's old covered market, and it has the layout of a bazaar that grew in the days when caravans crossed the desert to reach the oasis. Long, shaded passages run between rows of small shops, with arched ceilings, thick walls and shuttered entrances, and the air inside is noticeably cooler than the street. The oasis of Al-Ahsa has been a trading crossroads for centuries, the place where the desert people of Arabia met merchants from the Gulf coast, Iraq and India, and the market was built to serve them.
What is sold is traditional and sensible: dates, spices, coffee, incense, brass and copper, bisht cloaks of fine wool edged in gold thread, woven mats, perfume oils and the long gowns the region is known for. Al-Ahsa is famous for its dates, especially the khalas variety, and the shops sell them in pressed blocks, in paper bags or in loose heaps in baskets, with a generous taste for any customer. Shopkeepers will offer coffee, usually flavoured with cardamom, and a negotiation is part of the pleasure. Ask before taking photographs of people.
The nearby Ibrahim Palace and the other historic forts of the old town give the area its character, and the oasis lies just beyond, a tangle of palm groves and irrigation channels that appear green and cool from the road. Springs here run warm even in winter. The best time to walk through is early in the evening, after the afternoon prayer, when the market comes alive and the light is soft.
For the rider, Hofuf is a city of almost three hundred thousand people, with wide roads, heavy traffic and fast driving. Streets near the market are narrow and congested, and parking can be awkward, so allow time to find a place and walk the last stretch. Fuel is everywhere. Summer temperatures often exceed forty-five degrees, so the cooler months from November to March are the right time, and midday should be spent in the shade. Dust is common, and strong winds in spring can bring sandstorms with little notice. Close the visor against grit, and take water, because the market is dry and the air is arid.