The Sulak Canyon is one of the deepest in the world, and it is hard to appreciate until you stand on the rim. In Dagestan, the Sulak River has cut a gorge through the limestone of the northeastern Caucasus, with walls that rise up to about 1,500 metres in places, and sometimes more by some estimates, comparable to the Grand Canyon, and by some counts deeper. The water at the bottom is turquoise, held back by dams, and from the viewing platforms on the rim, the river is a thin ribbon, with the cliffs falling in sheer, tawny steps. The canyon is about fifty kilometres long, and at its narrowest, the walls come close together, forming a deep, shadowed slot.
The village of Dubki, which sits at the edge of the canyon, has become a base for visitors, with viewing platforms, stalls and small cafés, and boats that take tourists along the river, through the gorge, where the cliffs rise on both sides. The boat trip is the best way to feel the scale, and it takes about an hour, with a stop at a small beach. Fresh fish is grilled at the quayside.
Dagestan is a land of extraordinary diversity, with dozens of ethnic groups and languages, and each valley has its own character. The Avars, Laks, Dargins and others live in mountain villages, with distinct customs, crafts and cuisine, and the hospitality is generous. Local dishes include khinkal, boiled dough with meat, and chudu, a flatbread with various fillings.
The ride to the canyon is a matter of mountain roads with plenty of bends, steep slopes and long views. The surface varies, with good tarmac in places and broken stretches in others, and lorries and local cars share the road. Tunnels pierce the cliffs at several points, and rockfalls are possible. The heat in summer can be intense, with temperatures above thirty-five degrees in the lowlands, and the cooler air of the mountains is a relief. May, June and September are the best months for riding.
Dubki has a petrol station or two, in addition to basic shops, and Chirkey, about thirteen kilometres away, is bigger, with the dam that created the reservoir. Stand on the platform at the edge, and look down. The river is far below, and the silence is large.