Bali's rice terraces look natural from a distance, but they are in fact a machine, an old and delicate piece of social engineering that shares water among thousands of farmers. The Pakerisan river runs south from the volcanic highlands near Tampaksiring, and along its length the fields, canals and temples form a landscape that UNESCO listed in 2012 as part of the cultural landscape of Bali, built on the subak system. Ubud, a sizeable town of twenty-eight thousand people, is about ten kilometres to the south-west.
A subak is a cooperative of farmers who share a water supply, and each one has a temple where the priests make offerings to the goddess of rice and the water. They have managed water this way for around a thousand years, and the philosophy behind it, called Tri Hita Karana, speaks of harmony between people, nature and the spirits. The watershed also contains Gunung Kawi, a royal monument from the eleventh century, with shrines carved into the rock face of a river gorge, reached by a long flight of steps down to the water. It is shady, cool and quiet, with the sound of the river and the smell of incense, and the walk back up is steeper than it looks.
The riding here is a matter of patience. The roads between Ubud, Tampaksiring and Klungkung are narrow, busy with scooters, trucks and tourist buses, and flanked by walls and carved stone gates, with potholes, dogs and offerings left on the tarmac. It is not a place for speed, but for slow, observant riding, through villages where roosters crow and shrines stand at every corner. The best light comes in the early morning, before the haze rises and the traffic builds. The dry season, from April to October, is the more comfortable time, while the rains from November to March bring brilliant green terraces and sudden downpours.
Fuel is sold from roadside stalls and at proper stations, and it is easy to find in Ubud and Klungkung. For food, look for a warung selling nasi campur, a plate of rice with small servings of meat, vegetables and sambal, or babi guling, roast suckling pig, which Ubud is famous for. Respect the temples by wearing a sarong and sash when you enter, and never step over an offering on the ground.