Su'ao is a fishing port on the north-east coast of Taiwan, a working harbour with sheds, trawlers and the smell of diesel and salt, and it marks the northern gate of one of the island's dramatic coastal roads. The mountains of the Central range drop almost directly into the Pacific here, leaving very little flat land, and the town is squeezed into a narrow lowland between steep green slopes and a bay full of boats. It is not a pretty place, but it is honest, and the seafood is excellent.
Su'ao is also famous for its cold spring, which is rare in Asia: the water bubbles out of the ground at a chilly temperature and is slightly carbonated. People bathe in it in summer, and locals claim that the sensation is invigorating. In a town where almost everything else is hot and humid, that makes a pleasant diversion. Some visitors drink it too.
The ride begins on the Suhua Highway, a road that was first cut through these cliffs under Japanese rule in the 1930s and has been repaired many times since. It runs along the edge of steep sea cliffs, in some places a hundred metres or more above the waves, with the Pacific stretched out below and long, rolling bends to match. The views are among the best in Taiwan, but the road is also prone to landslides in typhoon season, and heavy trucks and tour coaches can make progress slow. A newer line of tunnels now takes much of the traffic, which has made the old road quieter.
Fill the tank here, since the long coastal stretch has fewer stations, and eat at one of the harbour restaurants, where the fish is served raw, steamed or fried according to taste. Morning light on the sea is spectacular, and in autumn the air is clear and the sea deep blue. In summer and early autumn, typhoons are a serious risk, so watch the forecast, and expect rain at any time of year, because this side of the island is wet.