The monastery of Studenica lies in a green gorge of the Golija mountains in central Serbia, where a clear river runs down through beech and oak woods toward the Ibar. Stefan Nemanja, the founder of the medieval Serbian state, began building it in the 1190s, and it became the model for all the monasteries that followed. Nemanja himself abdicated in 1196 and later became a monk, dying on Mount Athos in 1199. His son, Saint Sava, brought his father's remains back here, and they rest in the church today.
The central church, dedicated to the Virgin, is built of white marble and surrounded by high stone walls, and it has a Romanesque feel from its carved windows and portals, mixed with Byzantine design in the plan and the domes. Inside, the frescoes are among the finest in the Orthodox world, with a monumental Crucifixion dating to the early thirteenth century and many saints in blues and golds. The monastery was listed by UNESCO in 1986, and it is still an active community, so dress modestly and keep your voice low.
The approach from Kraljevo is a lovely ride. The road follows the Ibar and then turns up the Studenica valley, with smooth asphalt and long, easy corners among forested slopes, with farms and plum orchards in the lower parts. Plums mean rakija, and in many farms you may be offered a glass, which is hospitality rather than a challenge; politely decline if you are riding. Traffic is light, but tractors and trucks are common, so keep a gap on the blind bends. Autumn colours in the beech woods are superb, and spring brings fresh green and flowers.
Kraljevo, about thirty kilometres away, is a town of eighty thousand and the place to fill up and buy supplies. Vrnjačka Banja, a spa town about thirty-three kilometres off, offers more varied lodging and cafes. Near the monastery itself there are a few small places to eat, serving simple Serbian food such as grilled meat, kajmak and fresh bread. If you can, come in the early morning, when the light slants into the courtyard and the bells ring across the valley.