Storms River is a village of a few houses and a petrol station tucked in a clearing of the Tsitsikamma forest, a place that would be easy to overlook if the setting were not so extraordinary. The Garden Route here runs along a narrow strip of land between the Indian Ocean and the mountains, with ancient indigenous forest, towering yellowwood trees, ferns and mist, and every river cutting a deep gorge on its way to the sea. The Khoi name Tsitsikamma is usually translated as place of much water, and the name is earned.
The N2 highway crosses the gorge on a high concrete arch, the Paul Sauer Bridge, completed in 1956, which hangs about a hundred metres above the river. A little to the west, the Bloukrans Bridge is higher still, and hosts a commercial bungee jump that claims the title of the highest in the world. Even if you do not jump, the view down into the gorge is dizzying. The Storms River Mouth, in the national park, is reached by a side road that drops steeply to the coast, where a rope suspension bridge crosses the river just where it meets the sea. The rocks and the waves are impressive, and the Otter Trail, South Africa's famous coastal hiking route, starts nearby.
On the bike, the N2 through this area is a good road rather than a thrilling one: wide, well-surfaced, with long gentle curves, forested slopes, and a fair amount of lorry traffic. A toll is charged at the Tsitsikamma plaza, and cash or card is usual. Weather is the wild card. The coast gets rain throughout the year, and mist can drift into the forest, so pack a waterproof layer, and be careful on wet tar under the trees. Summer, December to February, is busy, while spring and autumn are quieter and mild.
Fuel is available in the village, and there are cafes, a few places to sleep and a good selection of local trout, seafood and rooibos tea. For larger stocks, Plettenberg Bay to the west and Humansdorp to the east are the main towns.
The forest here feels almost prehistoric, with Knysna loeries calling in the canopy, and, if you are lucky, a troop of vervet monkeys on the roadside. Ride slowly, and take the side road down to the river mouth.