Ston is a tiny town with a huge wall. Where the Pelješac peninsula narrows to a thread, the old Republic of Ragusa, Dubrovnik's city-state, built a line of fortifications that climbs a steep hill and runs for several kilometres, more than five by most accounts, joining Ston to its twin Mali Ston on the other side of the isthmus. Construction began in the fourteenth century, and the wall is often called the European Great Wall. Walk it if you have the legs, because from the top you see the salt pans, the oyster beds and the narrow channel of Mali Ston Bay opening on each side.
The salt pans are the reason for all that stone. Ston has produced salt for centuries, and the Republic guarded the income carefully. The pans are still worked, and the sight of white crystals and old stone sluices in the afternoon light is easy to love. The bay is also famous for oysters and mussels, and a plate of the former in Mali Ston, with a glass of local white, is the traditional treat. The earthquake of 1996 damaged the walls, and restoration has taken years.
For riders, Ston is a handy junction. The coast road from the north and Dubrovnik, the Adriatic Highway, passes close, and the peninsula road runs out west toward Orebić through vineyards that produce Plavac Mali, the grape behind the heavy red wines of Dingač and Postup. The road itself is quiet and bends along the ridge with sea views left and right, though the surface can be rough and gusts of bura wind can hit the exposed sections hard. Summer brings heat and tourist traffic, especially on the main coast route, so early starts help. Neum, about eleven kilometres away, is a Bosnian town on a short stretch of coast that interrupts the Croatian shoreline, with border checks that can mean queues in season. The new bridge to the peninsula now bypasses it for travellers who prefer to stay in Croatia.
Ston has only a few thousand people at most, so do not count on a large choice of services. Check the fuel level before arriving, because larger towns are on either side. There are restaurants and a bakery by the walls, and a short stop is easy to enjoy.