Stolac sits in a limestone gorge of the Bregava river in southern Herzegovina, a town that has been lived in for an extremely long time and has more than its share of history for its size. The old town clings to the slopes, with the ruins of a fortress above, and water is everywhere. The Bregava runs clear and fast through the middle, and in places the old houses lean over the stream. Under the ground nearby are caves and springs, and in the surrounding hills prehistoric burial mounds and carved medieval gravestones, known as stećci, are scattered. The huge cemetery at Radimlja, a short drive away, is among the most famous stećak sites in the region, with large, finely carved stone slabs in a meadow beside the road.
The town has suffered badly in recent history. Many of its Ottoman buildings were damaged in the 1990s war, and restoration has been slow and uneven, which gives the old quarter a thoughtful and a little melancholy atmosphere. It is an honest place rather than a polished one, and that is part of its appeal. It is also known for pomegranates, figs and the sweet fruits of the Mediterranean-edge climate, and for the Bregava itself, which locals use for swimming on hot days.
For a rider, Stolac is a rewarding middle point on the route between Trebinje and Mostar. The roads in and out run through dry limestone hills with olive trees, low walls and views across the plateau. The corners are mostly moderate, with some sharper bends where the road drops into river valleys. The surface is variable, so keep an eye out for patched asphalt, loose grit and the occasional goat. In midsummer the heat is intense, and an early start makes a big difference; spring and early autumn are lovely.
With around eight thousand people, Stolac has the basics: shops, cafés, and usually fuel, though it is wise to fill up in Mostar or Trebinje if you are not sure. A coffee beside the river is the right way to stop. If you have an hour to spare, drive the short distance to Radimlja and walk among the stones. It tells you more about the region than a signpost could.