Stepantsminda sits in a green bowl below Mount Kazbek, which at 5,047 metres is one of the great peaks of the Caucasus, and when the clouds part the mountain seems to hang over the roofs. The town was long known by the Russian name Kazbegi, and many signs and maps still use it. The Terek river, called the Tergi in Georgian, runs through the valley on its way north to the Caspian, and a few kilometres further on the gorge narrows toward the Russian border, so this really is the end of the road for most travellers.
The reason most people come is the church on the hill. The Gergeti Trinity Church stands alone on a ridge above the town at about 2,170 metres, a small stone building of the fourteenth century with the great white cone of Kazbek behind it, and it is one of the best known sights in Georgia. A rough track climbs to it, passable on a motorcycle but steep and stony, and a walk of a couple of hours is the traditional approach. Early morning is the best moment, when the mountain is clear and the hill is quiet. Later the clouds often roll in and hide the summit.
The ride from Gudauri is a high, wild stretch, over the Jvari Pass and down through the valley of the Terek, where black slopes, rushing rivers and a few old stone towers fill the view. Heavy lorries heading for the Russian border use this road in large numbers, so there can be queues in the Dariali gorge north of town, and the surface suffers from the traffic. In winter, snow and avalanches can close the road, so check conditions before setting out.
Stepantsminda has a small centre with guesthouses, cafés and shops, and the food is hearty, with khinkali dumplings, cheese bread and grilled meats. Fuel is available in the town, but supplies can run short in busy periods, so do not leave the stop with a nearly empty tank. Gudauri, about twenty-four kilometres back, is the next sizeable place. Nights are cold even in summer, and a warm layer is as useful as a camera.