In the late 1990s, engineers working on a new stretch of railway along the northern shore of Lake Neuchâtel ran into something unexpected near the village of Concise: layer upon layer of prehistoric settlement, preserved in the waterlogged ground. Over several years, archaeologists uncovered thousands of wooden piles, pottery, tools and food remains from villages that had been built and rebuilt on the shore over many centuries in the Neolithic and Bronze Age. The site is now part of the World Heritage list of pile dwellings around the Alps, though there is little to see above ground today.
What you can see is the lake, long and silvery, with the Jura rising steeply behind the shore and the plain of the Broye and the Alps on the far side. The road along the northern shore between Yverdon and Neuchâtel passes through Concise, Saint-Aubin and Bevaix, with vineyards climbing the slopes above. It is a gentle, scenic route with lake views most of the way, though traffic can be heavy, especially around the towns. For more interesting riding, head up into the Jura: the roads to Mauborget, Provence and Sainte-Croix climb through forest and pasture with fine views back over the lake.
The area has a rich history beyond the prehistoric. Just down the shore, Grandson is famous for its castle and for the battle of 1476, when the Swiss confederates defeated Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, capturing a vast treasure that is still partly on display in Swiss museums. Yverdon-les-Bains, at the southern end of the lake, has been a spa since Roman times and was home to the educational reformer Johann Heinrich Pestalozzi, who ran a famous school in the castle.
The lake and its shores are rich in birdlife, especially in the reed beds and marshes. The vineyards of the Bonvillars and Neuchâtel appellations produce crisp white wines from Chasselas and some fine Pinot Noir. In spring and autumn, the light on the lake can be stunning, with mist rising off the water in the morning.
Yverdon-les-Bains, about nine kilometres away, has fuel, food and accommodation. Grandson and Saint-Aubin are smaller but have basic services. Concise itself has a small station and a few cafés, a quiet place for a pause by the water.