Stateline is a town that exists because of a line on a map. On the southeast corner of Lake Tahoe, the border between California and Nevada runs straight through the street, and a cluster of casino towers stands on the Nevada side, a few steps from the motels, cafes and gas stations of South Lake Tahoe. When California tightened its rules on gambling, the casinos took their chance on the other side of the line, and the glitter has been there ever since. It looks odd against the pines and the mountains behind, and that is part of the joke.
As the end of a lake loop, it works well. After a day in the saddle, tourist-heavy but lovely, you roll onto the long, busy strip of Highway 50 and find all the practicalities in a row: fuel, groceries, bars, big buffet restaurants that are cheap and satisfying after a long ride, and an unending supply of rooms. Casino car parks are free and handy for a bike, and the food is dependable, if not subtle. Weekends are loud, and summer evenings are busy, but you do not have to gamble to enjoy the show.
Behind the casinos, the ski area of Heavenly climbs the slope, with a gondola from town and views from the top across the whole basin: a vast, blue lake ringed by granite peaks. In summer, the gondola carries walkers and sightseers, and on the lake itself there are paddle-wheel boats and beaches. The east shore of Tahoe is quieter, with the Nevada side's pine-covered state park and a few secluded sandy coves, and it is worth a detour if you have time.
Weather in the Sierra changes fast. Summer evenings are cool even after a hot day, thunderstorms can build over the crest in the afternoon, and early snow can arrive from October. Altitude, at roughly 1,900 metres, means the sun is strong and you will feel the air is thinner if you have just come from the coast. Lock your bike, stay hydrated and make time for sunset on the beach before you collapse into bed.