The Tashkent circus looks like a landed spaceship, or a giant pale flying saucer, and for decades it was one of the city's proudest buildings. Circus was a serious art form in the Soviet Union, with its own schools, state companies and international stars, and every large city had a permanent big top made of concrete. The one in Tashkent, a round building with a huge dome, was built in the 1970s and holds nearly two thousand spectators, and the tradition of acrobats, trained animals, clowns and trapeze artists is a cherished part of the city's culture, with many families bringing their children on Sundays.
The building belongs to the era of reconstruction after the 1966 earthquake, when the city was given large public monuments of concrete and tile, in forms that were meant to look to the future. Many have weathered the changes since independence, and some have been restored, while others face an uncertain fate. It is worth a look from the outside, at least, as an example of a particular, optimistic kind of architecture.
For a day on the bike, the circus is a convenient starting point, in the middle of the capital, for the road toward the Chatkal Biosphere Reserve, in the western Tien Shan. The way out leads north-east through the suburbs and along the river, then into orchards and villages, and the valleys narrow as the mountains close in. The surface is mostly good, but watch for potholes and for slow trucks on the climbs. In late spring, the hills glow green, and the cherry and apricot trees bloom in the foothill villages, while in summer the mountains give a cool break from the heat of the city.
Tashkent has plenty of fuel stations, though petrol is not always available, so do not let the tank run low, and fill up before you leave. Eating is easy, with kebabs, plov and fresh bread on offer at every corner, and green tea. Remember that police checkpoints are common, and keep your documents at hand. The best months for the ride are May, June and September, with temperatures that are pleasant and views that are clear, and avoid the hottest weeks of July and August.