Starigrad lies on the Adriatic shore beneath the grey wall of the Velebit mountains, a long strip of pebble beach, pine trees and low stone houses squeezed between the sea and the rock. Locals know it as Starigrad-Paklenica, after the national park that begins at its back door, where two gorges, Velika and Mala Paklenica, cut deep into the limestone. Sheer cliffs rising hundreds of metres make it a magnet for climbers, and the sound of ropes and carabiners at the foot of the walls is part of the village soundtrack in spring.
The road that runs through is the Adriatic Highway, the old coastal route that links Rijeka with Dubrovnik, and for a rider it is one of the great drives of the Mediterranean. North of Starigrad it follows the Velebit Channel, with the island of Pag stretched across the water like a bare, pale whale. Towards Zadar it crosses the Maslenica bridge and drops into the Dalmatian hinterland. The road is generally smooth, with long open bends, and views at every turn. The challenge is the wind, the bura, a cold, violent gust from the mountains that can knock a bike sideways and sometimes forces the closure of the road to light vehicles, so look at the warnings before you go.
In summer the beaches are packed, restaurants serve grilled fish and local lamb, and the temperature climbs high, so early and late rides are better. May, June and September are the sweet months, with warm sea and calmer traffic. Winter brings the bura and sometimes ice higher up.
Starigrad is a village, so fuel is not guaranteed; the reliable choice is Zadar, about twenty-six kilometres away, or the stations along the Highway. Fill your tank before the emptier stretches, and carry water if you plan to hike into the gorge, as the walk is warm and shade is scarce.