On the hills above Zalău, in the county of Sălaj in northwestern Romania, the Roman Empire reached its northern limit in Dacia. After Trajan conquered the Dacian kingdom in 106, the Romans built a frontier system along the edges of the new province, with forts, watchtowers, walls and ditches, and in 2024 UNESCO listed it as the Frontiers of the Roman Empire, Dacia. The site at Stâna, La Oroieși, is one of many small elements of that frontier: a watchtower or defensive line on a ridge, where soldiers watched over the approaches from the free Dacian lands beyond. There is little to see on the ground, but the location, with views over the hills, explains why it was chosen.
The greatest Roman site in the area is Porolissum, on the hills near Moigrad, about fifteen kilometres from Zalău. It was a large fortified town and military base, controlling one of the main passes through the Meseș mountains, and it grew into a busy trading centre, where Romans and free Dacians exchanged goods. The excavated ruins include a fort with a reconstructed gate, an amphitheatre, temples and a customs post, spread over a hilltop with wide views. It is one of the most impressive Roman sites in Romania, and it is rarely crowded.
Zalău, the county capital, is a modern town with a county museum displaying finds from Porolissum and other sites. The surrounding countryside is a landscape of rolling hills, orchards, vineyards and villages, with forests on the ridges of the Meseș mountains. The villages of Sălaj are known for their wooden churches, small and beautiful, often hidden among trees on hillsides.
The riding is good. The roads through the Meseș mountains climb over ridges with tight bends and views over the hills, and the minor roads between villages wind through farmland and forests. The surface varies, with good main roads and poorer minor ones, where potholes are common. Watch for horse-drawn carts, livestock and dogs, especially in villages.
Zalău, about seven kilometres away, has fuel, mechanics, shops and restaurants. Try ciorbă, the sour soups of Romania, and a plate of sarmale, stuffed cabbage rolls with polenta and sour cream. Romania requires a road vignette, the rovinieta, for cars, but motorcycles are exempt.