Antwerp's Stadhuis faces the Grote Markt with all the confidence of a city that once ran the world's busiest port. It was built between 1561 and 1565 to a design by Cornelis Floris de Vriendt, a Renaissance palace with a long, symmetrical front, tiers of columns and a central tower topped by statues. Four hundred and more years later it still serves as the city hall, and its gilded flags, carved reliefs and rows of tall windows catch the evening light beautifully.
In the square in front stands the Brabo fountain, a muscular bronze figure hurling a giant's severed hand into the river. The legend says that the giant Druon Antigoon demanded tolls from sailors on the Scheldt and chopped off the hands of those who refused to pay, until the hero Silvius Brabo defeated him and threw the hand away. The name Antwerp is said to come from that hand-throwing, hand werpen, though linguists have their doubts. The guild houses that line the square, with their stepped gables and golden ornament, add to the theatrical feel.
Riding into the old centre is a mixed pleasure. Cobbles and tram rails are slippery in the wet, narrow streets limit access, and parking is tight, so many riders leave the bike at a car park on the edge and walk in. Belgium also has low-emission zones in Antwerp, so check the current rules for your vehicle before you arrive. Fuel is plentiful in the surrounding city and along the ring road, and the Grote Markt is ringed with cafés and restaurants serving mussels, stoofvlees, a Flemish beef stew, and strong local beer.
The cathedral of Our Lady, with its towering spire, and Rubens's house are within a short walk, and the city's diamond district sits near the central station. Early morning is the best time to see the square before it fills up, and Sunday is quieter, though the shops are shut. Spring and early autumn are comfortable, while the winter months bring grey drizzle and an early dusk. The Scheldt waterfront, a short stroll away, is worth a sunset walk.