St Martins is a small village on the Bay of Fundy coast of New Brunswick, and it lives by the tide. Twice a day the water retreats from the harbour and leaves the fishing boats resting on the mud, and twice a day it returns, rising several metres in a few hours. The Bay of Fundy has the highest tides in the world, and at St Martins the difference between low and high water is the height of a three-storey building. It is hard to understand until you have seen the same harbour at both extremes.
The village was a shipbuilding town in the nineteenth century, when the shore was lined with yards producing wooden square-riggers that sailed to Britain and beyond. The industry collapsed with the arrival of steel ships, and what remains are the captains' houses on the hillside, a lighthouse at Quaco Head and the quiet look of a place that was once richer. Two old covered bridges stand in the village, red-painted wooden structures that have crossed the creeks since the nineteenth century, and are favourite subjects for photographers.
The sea caves are the best-known attraction. At low tide, a stretch of beach below red sandstone cliffs opens up, and you can walk into caves worn into the rock, with high arched ceilings and floors of wet sand. The tide comes in quickly, so check the tide tables and keep an eye on the water. The red of the cliffs, the green of the spruce above and the brown of the mudflats make a strong contrast, and fog often drifts in from the sea, giving the coast a moody feel.
The road from Saint John, the nearest city, runs along Route 111 through forest and farmland, with tight bends and short climbs, before dropping into the village. The surface is generally fair, but frost heaves and patches appear in the spring. It is a quiet road for a motorcycle, and in good weather a joy. The Fundy Trail Parkway begins just beyond the village, offering a more scenic and elevated ride along the coast. Fog can arrive suddenly and temperatures drop, so carry a warm layer even in summer.
The village has a bakery, a couple of restaurants and a general store, and the seafood is excellent, with lobster rolls and haddock and chips being the staples. Fuel is limited, and the safest option is to fill the tank before heading out, either in Saint John or Sussex. Plan your visit around the tide, and bring a flashlight if you plan to explore the caves.