Drass is known as one of the coldest inhabited places in the world, and the winter temperatures here, which have fallen close to minus forty-five Celsius, justify the reputation. The small town lies at roughly 3,300 metres in a wide, treeless valley beyond the Zoji La, with snow-covered peaks all around. In summer the climate is cool and dry, with strong sun and a hard blue sky, and the barley fields turn gold in late summer. The villages are built of stone and mud brick, with flat roofs where hay is stacked for winter.
Drass is also a place of memory. In 1999 the Kargil conflict between India and Pakistan was fought on the heights above the road, and the Kargil War Memorial, built in honour of the Indian soldiers who fell, stands beside the highway. It has a museum, a wall of names and a flag, and the nearby peaks, including Tololing, are pointed out by guides. Visitors are asked to be quiet and respectful. The highway here ran in the line of fire, which is why the area is heavily patrolled.
The population is mostly of Dard ancestry, with Shina-language speakers and a long history of trading and herding. Many families keep sheep and goats, and in the early morning you may see herds on the road. The ride through here is straightforward, with a good surface and long, open stretches of tarmac, and the landscape is bare and grand. Wind can be strong in the afternoon. Cold at night is serious even in summer.
Services are modest. There are small dhabas selling tea and noodles, and a fuel station in the area, though it is wise to check before relying on it. The larger town of Kargil lies about sixty kilometres ahead, and it has more choice. Stop at the memorial if you can, and stay for a hot tea.