Sonamarg means the meadow of gold, and in early summer the grass here is a bright, flower-flecked green with the glaciers of the main Himalaya shining behind it. The Sindh river runs milky and fast through the middle of the valley, and fir and birch forests climb the slopes to the snowline. At about 2,700 metres, it is cool and clear, and this is where most travellers feel the road to Ladakh has really begun. Pahalgam is the nearest sizeable town, but that is in another valley, so for services you rely on what you find in the small bazaar here and on the road out of Srinagar.
Sonamarg was long a staging post on the old caravan route between Kashmir and Ladakh, where traders from Yarkand and Tibet rested before crossing the Zoji La. Today it is a popular summer destination for Indian visitors, with ponies and day-trippers heading for the Thajiwas glacier, an easy trek from the meadow. Trout swim in the river, and Gujjar and Bakarwal herders bring their sheep and goats up to the high pastures in summer, living in simple huts and tents.
The road in is a pleasant, rising ride alongside the river. Corners are moderate, the surface is generally good, and the scenery is beautiful. Traffic, however, can be a problem. Army convoys, trucks and tourist vehicles can build up long queues, and overtaking requires patience and care. Landslides and shooting stones can close the road after rain, so keep an eye on the cliffs above.
Fuel is available at stations on the approach, but supplies at Sonamarg itself can be limited, so fill your tank earlier. The bazaar has snack stalls with fried bread, tea and omelettes. Mornings are the best time to ride, when the road is clear and the light on the peaks is bright. Bring a waterproof, because rain showers come quickly, and a warm layer for the pass ahead.