This is the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir, a city of canals, wooden houseboats and old mosques, where the Mughal emperors laid out gardens such as Shalimar and Nishat to take advantage of the cool air and the view across the lake. Willow, chinar and poplar trees line the roads, and in autumn the chinar leaves turn a deep orange.
The Srinagar–Leh highway starts here and climbs towards Ladakh, one of the great high roads of the world. The first stage is gentle, running east along the Sindh river valley through Kangan to Sonamarg, a meadow surrounded by snow peaks, and then the road climbs steeply to the Zoji La, a pass at about 3,500 metres, which is the gateway to Ladakh. The surface varies from good to broken, and sections can be muddy, narrow and exposed, with drops and heavy truck traffic. Traffic is controlled in one direction at a time over the pass, so timing matters. The pass usually opens in spring and closes with the first big snows, so check the conditions before you set off.
Kashmir has a long cultural history, with a mix of Hindu, Buddhist and Islamic traditions, and its crafts, including carpets, papier-mâché and shawls, are known throughout India. The food is rich, with wazwan banquets of lamb and kahwa, a green tea flavoured with saffron and almonds. The region has seen conflict, and security checkpoints are common, so carry your documents and check the latest news and travel advice before you ride.
Fuel is no problem in Srinagar, which has stations throughout, and it is essential to fill up here before leaving, as stations become sparse beyond Sonamarg. Kargil, the next town of any size, is about two hundred kilometres away, and the distance and altitude make it a long day.
Spend an hour on the lake if you have time. A shikara ride at dawn, with mist on the water and the mountains in the distance, sets the tone for the road ahead.