Springerville sits on a high volcanic plain in the White Mountains of eastern Arizona, a few feet under seven thousand feet above the sea, and anyone who thinks of Arizona as flat desert is in for a surprise. The air is thin and cool, the hills are dotted with ponderosa pine and juniper, and the town lies on grassland at the foot of a huge volcanic field. Springerville and its neighbour Eagar form a ranching and mountain-resort community of about six thousand people together, with the old cattle-country feel, a few motels and cafes, and a view of Escudilla Mountain's dark bulk.
For riders, this is the northern end of the Coronado Trail, US 191, which runs south for about 120 miles to Clifton through the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest. It is known for its curves, famously several hundred of them, and for its drops and climbs through conifer forest, aspen and open meadows, with long stretches where you see no other vehicle. The road follows an old route said to have been taken by Francisco Vázquez de Coronado's expedition in 1540, though historians question the details. Weather changes fast, and on the highest sections, snow is possible well into spring and again from October.
Services are the thing to plan. Springerville and Eagar have fuel, groceries and places to eat, but between the two towns and Clifton the supply is thin, with lodges and small stores at Alpine and a seasonal lodge at Hannagan Meadow. Fill the tank before leaving, check your tyres and bring warm layers, since afternoon storms in July and August can bring lightning, hail and sudden cold. Elk, deer and cattle wander across the road, particularly at dusk.
Nearby, the Casa Malpais archaeological site preserves the remains of a Mogollon pueblo, built on a basalt ridge by people who lived here about seven hundred years ago, and there are fine views of the White Mountains from the road. Try the local green chile in a diner, with eggs or a burger. The best months are June to September, and early October for aspen colour.