South of the Gold Coast, the land rises suddenly into a plateau of ancient rainforest, waterfalls and cliffs, and this is Springbrook. The plateau is about nine hundred metres high, and it is what remains of the huge Tweed shield volcano, which erupted some twenty-three million years ago and left a vast eroded caldera, with Mount Warning as its central plug. The rim of the caldera forms the Scenic Rim around it, and Springbrook's cliffs and gorges are part of that rim. It is part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia, a World Heritage area, and its cool, wet forest is a startling contrast to the beaches and high-rises thirty minutes away.
What you come for is the water and the trees. Purling Brook Falls drops more than a hundred metres into a rainforest gorge, the Natural Bridge is a basalt cave where a creek has bored through the rock, and at night, glow-worms light up the ceiling like a field of stars. On the higher ground, the Antarctic beech, a tree that has survived since the days of Gondwana, grows in mossy, mist-bound groves, some of the trees being thousands of years old. The Best of All Lookout gives views over the volcano's remains and, on a clear day, to the Pacific.
The ride up from Mudgeeraba is excellent: Springbrook Road climbs the escarpment in a series of tight bends and hairpins through eucalypt forest, with a surface that is mostly good but narrow, and occasional wet leaves and gravel. It is popular with riders at weekends, so the best time is a weekday or an early morning. The weather on the plateau is often cooler and wetter than on the coast, with mist and drizzle, so wear a waterproof layer. In summer, afternoon storms are common.
Fuel is not available on the plateau, and the nearest places for it are Mudgeeraba and Reedy Creek, in the Gold Coast hinterland. There is a small cafe or two near the lookouts, and good pies. Take water for the walks, and watch for leeches in the wet season. A visit at dusk to see the glow-worms is worth the effort.