Springbok is the capital of Namaqualand, and for most of the year it is a small, dry, dusty town on the N7 in the north-west of South Africa. Then comes the rain, usually in winter, and the surrounding hills turn into a carpet of wildflowers, orange, yellow, white and purple, as millions of daisies and succulents burst into bloom. The show usually peaks in August and September, and the flowers open only in sunshine, turning their faces to the sun at midday and closing again by late afternoon, so plan your timing accordingly.
The town sits in a rocky valley among granite domes, at about 900 metres, and its history is bound up with copper. Mining started in this region in the nineteenth century, and the nearby town of O'okiep was one of the richest copper areas in the world for a while. The old synagogue in the middle of Springbok, a building from the early twentieth century, now houses the tourist office and a small museum, and the stone houses of the main street give the town a frontier look. Goegap Nature Reserve, just outside the town, protects succulent plants and wildlife, with springbok, zebra and a wealth of birds.
For a rider, the Namaqualand roads are long, quiet and open, with wide views of orange earth and rocky hills. The N7 runs north to the Namibian border at Vioolsdrif and south toward Cape Town in long straights, and side roads lead west to the Atlantic coast through scrubby, empty country. Wind is a feature, often strong, and the sun is fierce, so wear sunscreen and drink water. In flower season, traffic increases and vehicles stop without warning to photograph the blooms, so keep your distance.
Springbok has about ten thousand inhabitants and all the services you need, with several fuel stations, shops and restaurants, and it is the last major town before the long distances to the coast and the border. Distances to the next fuel can be considerable, so fill up before leaving. Guesthouses fill up during the flower season, so book early, and carry cash for small villages. The sunsets, with the hills glowing red, make the end of the day special.