Hella is a small town on the Ytri-Rangá river, in the south Icelandic lowlands, and for riders heading into the interior it is the last place that feels like ordinary rural life. The land here is flat and green, with farms, horses and the occasional lava outcrop, and on the horizon the great snow-covered cone of Hekla, one of Iceland's most active volcanoes, rises above the plain. The mountain is a constant presence, and it has been erupting, on and off, for centuries.
The ride from here toward the Sprengisandur highland road begins gently, along the lowlands, and then climbs onto the moors. The landscape changes quickly, with the farms thinning out and the grass giving way to sand and lava. The roads on the highland routes are gravel, mostly unpaved, with river crossings in places, so this is a ride for a bike set up for the job and for riders who have checked conditions. Weather can change quickly, and rain and wind come with little warning.
The district has a long history. Not far to the east lies the area that features in Njáls saga, the most famous of the Icelandic sagas, in which a tale of feud and revenge unfolded in the lowlands, ending in a famous burning. Hekla itself was believed in the Middle Ages to be the gateway to hell, and the legends of the mountain were widely known across Europe. Today farmers keep sheep and horses in the shadow of the volcano, and a well-organised rural economy hums along.
Nature is varied. The lowland meadows are rich in birds, with golden plovers and whimbrels, and the rivers hold salmon and trout. Ash from many eruptions has built up in the soil, and on a clear day the whole landscape has a sharp, fresh feel.
As a small town, Hella has shops, a service station and basic services, and is the sensible place to prepare for the interior. Selfoss is larger, some thirty kilometres to the west. Pack warm clothing and check the highland road conditions before you set out.