Kunzum La is a pass that most riders approach with a mix of excitement and fatigue, a rocky saddle at about 4,500 metres that separates Spiti from Lahaul. At the top, a small shrine decorated with prayer flags, yak horns and offerings stands beside the road, and riders traditionally circle it once, clockwise, and honk a horn for luck. The view takes in a sea of snow peaks, glaciers that tumble from the heights, and the vast empty valleys on both sides.
The road to the pass climbs from the Spiti valley in a series of broad hairpins, with a surface that ranges from decent to terrible. In dry weather it is a rocky track with loose gravel and ruts, and after rain or snow it can become a slippery mess. Water crossings appear in the afternoons, and the weather can turn quickly, with cloud and snow flurries even in midsummer. The descent on the Lahaul side is long and steep, passing below the glacier fields and following the Chandra river toward the Rohtang road.
The pass is closed by snow from about late October until early summer, and it usually opens when the army clears the road. Do not attempt to cross it without checking conditions locally. A short, rough side track leads to Chandra Tal, the Moon Lake, a stunning blue lake in a bowl of mountains, which many riders visit on foot or on a quick detour. The glacier-fed lake is a sacred site and a popular campsite, and it is wise to treat it with care.
There are no services at the pass. Fuel must be carried from Kaza, and food and water too. The nearest tea stalls are found at the bottom of the Lahaul side, and they offer noodles and tea in tents. The altitude is high enough to cause headaches, so ride slowly, rest, and drink water. A quiet moment at the shrine, with the wind in the flags, is a good way to remember why you came.