Allan Cunningham, the botanist and explorer, found a way through the Main Range in 1827, and the gap that bears his name now carries the busy highway from Brisbane to the Darling Downs. A few kilometres to the south, Spicers Gap was the route that early drays and coaches used instead, because it offered an easier climb up the escarpment. The old road, built in the mid nineteenth century with stone retaining walls and drains that can still be seen, is now part of the Main Range National Park and the neighbouring state forest, and it is a fascinating relic of the pioneer days, with a historic cemetery and the remains of an old camping ground for teamsters.
The Main Range is the western rim of the Scenic Rim, a chain of mountains running along the border of Queensland and New South Wales, part of the Gondwana Rainforests World Heritage area. The forests here are a mix of eucalyptus woodland and rainforest, with tall trees, vines, ferns and moss-covered rocks, and the wildlife includes koalas, wallabies, lyrebirds and many birds. The views from lookouts along the range, over the Fassifern Valley to the east and the Darling Downs to the west, are superb.
The Spicers Gap road is gravel, narrow and steep in places, with loose surfaces and ruts, and it is best tackled on a bike suited to dirt roads, in dry weather. The highway through Cunningham's Gap, on the other hand, is sealed and busy, with heavy trucks, so it is better to ride it outside peak times. The roads around Boonah and Kalbar, in the farmland below the range, are quiet and scenic, with gentle bends, rolling hills and views of the mountains. Lake Moogerah, a reservoir surrounded by peaks, is a popular spot for picnics and water sports.
Boonah, about twenty eight kilometres away, is a small country town with fuel, shops and cafes, and Kalbar is a historic village settled by German immigrants. There are no services in the forest, so carry water and food. The weather is subtropical, with hot summers and occasional heavy storms, and mild, dry winters, when the riding is at its best. Watch out for wildlife on the roads, especially at dawn and dusk, and be aware of bushfire danger in hot, dry conditions.