The Catlins is the part of New Zealand that most travellers miss, and the people who live here seem content with that. Down in the south-east corner of the South Island, between Balclutha and Invercargill, the coast is a patchwork of dairy paddocks, wind-bent forest, hidden beaches and headlands, and the roads are quiet. Owaka is the main settlement, a sleepy little place, and the coastline around it holds some of the best scenery on the Southern Scenic Route.
Nugget Point, a short ride from here, is a rocky headland topped by a lighthouse, with a line of small islands, the Nuggets, scattered in the sea below. Fur seals and sea lions bask on the rocks, and yellow-eyed penguins, known as hoiho, nest on the coast and come ashore in the late afternoon, so a patient visitor may see them. Further along, Cathedral Caves, accessible only at low tide, and the fossil forest at Curio Bay, where the stumps of Jurassic trees emerge from the rock platform, are well worth the effort.
The riding is a mixture of rolling tar and short stretches of gravel. The main road, the Southern Scenic Route, is sealed but narrow, with tight bends, steep hills and one-lane bridges, and visibility around the corners is limited. Gravel side roads lead to many of the sights and can be loose, so reduce your speed and tyre pressure if you go off the tar. Rain is frequent, and the surface can be greasy, and fog and wind are common on the coast. Livestock sometimes wander onto the road.
Owaka has a few shops and a place to eat, but services are limited. Fuel may be available in the village, though hours are short, so the sure bet is to arrive with a full tank from Balclutha, about thirty kilometres away, and check your range before heading deeper into the Catlins. Cafes and small stores are scattered along the coast, and some close early or in winter, so carry snacks and water.
The climate is cool and changeable, with strong winds, sudden showers and the occasional burst of warm sun. A good waterproof, warm layers and gloves are essential, even in summer. The forests, the sea and the sense of space make the Catlins a place where a slow pace is the only sensible approach.