South Pullu is a checkpoint rather than a destination, a bend on the long climb out of Leh where the army has set up a post and where the road leaves the last of the valley behind and begins to go seriously uphill. It sits on the Leh side of Khardung La, within a short run of the city, and for many riders it is the first moment of the day when the altitude begins to announce itself. Leh is at about 3,500 metres, and the road from here keeps climbing for another stretch of about twenty-odd kilometres before it reaches the pass.
The riding in this section is the build-up. The road leaves the Indus valley, switches back across barren mountainside, and the surface is a mix of fine tarmac, broken patches, and spots where meltwater has crossed the road and left grit and mud. The landscape is desert, brown and grey rock with no trees, and the light at this height is hard and clear. Weather matters a great deal. The pass itself can be in cloud or snow while Leh is sunny, and in the afternoon the road often turns slushy as snowmelt runs across it.
This is also where you meet the paperwork. Visitors going over the pass towards Nubra need the correct permit, which is arranged in Leh, and the army posts check them. Keep copies handy, and have your riding documents ready. The soldiers here are generally courteous, and a short stop for a form and a chat is a routine part of the trip.
Fuel is a real consideration. Fill the tank in Leh before you set off, as there is nothing on the climb and the thin air takes a toll on engines, particularly carburetted bikes that lose power as the oxygen drops. Carry a spare litre or two if you can, and know that Diskit, on the far side, has fuel but can run short in peak season. Carry water, and eat something before you go, because altitude and an empty stomach make for a miserable mix.
Early starts are the best strategy. Leave Leh soon after dawn, clear the post with the road mostly frozen and firm, and you will cross the pass with the cleaner morning air and less melt on the tarmac.