This is where Victoria began, briefly. In 1803 a British expedition under David Collins landed near Sorrento to found a settlement, but the site lacked water and the soil was poor, and after a few months they gave up and sailed to Tasmania. A small reserve marks the spot, with the graves of some of the settlers.
Sorrento sits near the tip of the Mornington Peninsula, between the calm waters of Port Phillip Bay on one side and the wild surf of Bass Strait on the other. The front beach, on the bay, is sheltered and shallow, ideal for swimming, while the back beach faces the ocean, with rock pools and big waves. The town itself is a holiday resort, with limestone buildings, cafés and galleries.
At the tip of the peninsula, Point Nepean National Park protects old forts and a quarantine station. In August 1914, a gun at Fort Nepean fired across the bow of a German ship trying to escape, the first Allied shot of the First World War. Nearby, at Cheviot Beach, Prime Minister Harold Holt disappeared while swimming in 1967, and his body was never found.
The ferry to Queenscliff crosses the Rip, the narrow, turbulent entrance to the bay, and on rough days it can be a lively ride. On the peninsula, the roads are winding and scenic, especially the climb to Arthurs Seat, with views over the bay.
Fuel is simpler in Rye or Blairgowrie than in Sorrento's busy main street. Once that is done, take fish and chips down to the front beach and eat them on the sand while the ferry noses out towards the Rip; seagulls will supervise.